Sintra-Cascais
(Written for In Madrid, the English Language guide to culture in the city)
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Another
holiday looms ever closer, a whole week this time, and you’re wondering
what to do with it? Fed up of the city? Pining for the great outdoors?
Why not take a hop skip and a jump off the beaten track (you don’t
even need a car to get there) delve deep into nature’s pockets
and… fumble about a bit. You never know what you’ll find.
The National Park of Sintra-Cascais is primarily known for its namesake
city: Sintra. The town was awarded the title of UNESCO World Heritage
site in 1995, and rightly so. It really is the king of the castle, as
it looks down from its hilltop position over lush green valleys, and waves
a dismissive hand in the direction of Lisbon (the dirty rascal), with
its blankets of smog clearly visible from the dizzy heights of this, the
Serra de Sintra. One look at the scenery reveals why the monarchy chose
this as their sometime residence, and built two national palaces to that
end.
The more conspicuous of the two is the Pena National Palace, which is perched, in tasteful shades of pink and yellow, on a rocky peak above the town. Looking at it is like looking at an architectural version of a patchwork quilt, with bits and pieces added at the whim of various members of the royal family between the 16th and 20th Centuries. It is fascinating because of it: externally you can see a range of styles, from late gothic and Manueline, to neo-gothic and romantic. The interior is largely 19th-20th Century, and has been left as it was by the Royal family upon the declaration of the Republic in 1910.
Below it, in the centre of town, is the National Palace of Sintra. Originally
constructed in the 10th Century as a residence for Lisbon’s Moorish
governors, it was taken over by the first king of Portugal, Afonso Henriques,
in 1147. This palace also demonstrates a multiplicity of architecture,
as it was variously expanded over the ages. Principally responsible for
the expansion were the Kings Dinis, João and Manuel I, between
1261 and 1521. It is interesting to observe their differences in taste
as you follow the arrows that lead you round this maze of a palace. Particularly
notable are the Palace Chapel, with its unusual dove frescoes, and the
Arab Room, decorated, as the name suggests, in the Mudejar style. There
is also a remarkable Kitchen, with numerous stoves and two, enormous,
conical chimneys. The kitchen receives spring water from the hills, and
is still used for the preparation of official banquets.
Less complete, but no less impressive are the ruins of the Moorish Castle,
which sprawl another of the town’s peaks. The position of this 8thCentury
castle was a point of great strategic importance to the Moors. However,
this, too, was lost to King Afonso, and fell into disrepair over the subsequent
700 years, until King Fernando II stepped in and ordered renovation. The
castle remains a site of historical interest and natural beauty, although
do be warned that reaching it takes a bit of a climb.
Once you’re done with Sintra, go west out to the Atlantic, on the
recently revived, century-old tram. The Eléctrico de Sintra is
not the fastest way to travel (13km takes 45 minutes,) but as it grinds
down the tracks, clinging to hillsides through tree-lined avenues, you
are provided with the perfect opportunity to survey the surroundings.
One euro a ticket makes it cheaper than the bus, which explains the presence
of toothless old locals on the journey, chatting with the driver at the
helm of this anachronistic ship, and wishing him a fond and lengthy farewell
when leaving. The pressures of time leave no mark on this corner of the
world, which you notice no more than at the journey’s end, in Praia
das Maçãs. This is a sleepy seaside town (though apparently
it wakes up in summer), which seems almost entirely populated by aging
dogs. They doze on the road and act as proprietors of the beach, which
is pretty much empty, apart from a few token lovers, who the dogs move
along by invading their privacy (i.e. calmly walking all over them.)
From here you can take a cliff top walk to Praia Grande, where crashing waves beckon to be surfed or body-boarded on. If you’re embarking on this between August and September you’ll be joined by the globe’s pros in the World Bodyboard Chamionships. Alternatively, park a rod on the rocks: fishing seems the ideal pass time for lazy days around here, so dip in.
A stop worth making along the tram journey is the wine cellar (adega)
in Colares. You can walk around the cellar for free, and marvel at the
barrels upon barrels of local wine - unique to the area, due to the vines
being grown in soil with high sand content. You could splash out on a
bottle, which will cost between 2 and 10 euros; or you can gather a more
complete impression of the wine by calling in advance and arranging a
tasting.
Nearby is also Cabo Da Roca, the westernmost point of Europe, where jagged
cliffs mark the 140m sheer drop to the sea, and you feel compelled to
believe that this is indeed where “the earth ends,” as the
poet Camões put it – and only a bus ride away from Sintra!
(The 403)
Between here and the next stop, Azoia, you will come across weekend, roadside
markets, where locals flog Portuguese specialties (such as Chorizo made
with chicken and garlic) along with more usual items such as fruit and
veg.
In Azoia, is the Moinho de Quixote. This windmill was converted twenty years ago into a fashionable restaurant and bar. It is worth a visit just to wander the beautifully kept and extensive gardens and gaze at the panoramic views over the winding coast, and the vast, sweeping beaches in the distance, whilst enjoying a Caipirinha, perhaps.
Accommodation in the area ranges from 25-45 euros for a single, and 30-150 euros for a double (lists available at tourist offices and on internet, see below.) However, if you are in a group of four or five and are looking for classy, self-catering accommodation off the beaten track, head straight for Malveira da Serra. In this village there are two, newly available self-contained apartments (each sleeping two) on the same property, one of which has a spacious dining and general lounging area fit for kings, fitted with all the mod cons your heart could desire. While away your evenings, looking out from the terrace over the valley and to the sea in the distance. The village is tiny, but wants for nothing, with two small supermarkets, a bar, another hotel and two restaurants. Restaurante O Camponês is particularly delightful, serving rustic fare in enormous portions.